Turn everything to the right side (you can do this because the lining upper edge isn’t stitched to the zipper tape yet; when lining a «normal» coat or jacket, you’ll have to turn the coat/lining to the right side through an unstitched seam section in the lining, for example leave a 5inch section unstitched along one of the lining sleeve seams). Notes on the pattern instructions: There’s at least one step missing for placing the front snaps. There’s also a side vent on one of the shifted side seams (for ease of movement), and an invisible zipper. The metric tape measure is a little simpler to read than the imperial, since the metric system is designed to have all numbers divisible by 10. A contrast would be that the imperial uses inches and segments of an inch and feet; sections of an inch are divided into sixteen, and then twelve inches make one foot. Please let me know by email or comment if you are experiencing any problems with my blogs and again, be reassured that my blogs are malware free.
Some friends have been writing to me complaining about malware on my blogs; I can assure you all that my blogs are not infected (I’ve been checking regularly using blogger Webmaster tools); there are a few compatibility problems with browsers other than Internet Explorer and I can’t guarantee that some of the links on the sidebar aren’t triggering virus warnings either. I’ve also heard that the visit counters used on most blogs also trigger these warnings, but I also suspect some virus warnings are triggered by commercial entities with the intent of convincing people to buy their anti-virus software. I don’t know when I will be able to start the construction process because I’ve been really short on time lately; this may also be my last winter project too. In my previous article on the pattern construction (click here) I’ve already explained how the pattern should be drafted so all the pieces (lining, facings and shell) would fit together in the end; I also provided some links to tutorials that you should really take a look, Knee Support Genesis to be able to fully understand this process. The collar should be able to stand so I guessed the bodice needed some structure so I used fusible tailor canvas on every bodice outer shell pieces.
The length of the pattern pieces should also be rectified, and it’s just a case of doing the math (if you like to add the «ease fold» along the hem — which I’m not making for this coat because it breakes at the waist — you’d probably just subtract the hem allowance and add regular SAs; since the lining hem will be sewn higher on the coat’s hem, this will form a nice fold along the hem. The upper lining is much easier in this case: I stitched it to the facings on a single step, turned in the bottom allowance and hand stitched it to the zipper tape. Instead of a free-hanging lining on the skirt I sewed the lining along the hem. Finally the hem is hand basted, pressed and finished by hand. Turn the coat (skirt) to the right side (this is the final turn, lol) and finish the upper edge of the lining turning in its upper allowance and hand stitching it to the zipper tape. Now turn the hem «allowance/lining» up (right sides facing) and stitch the vertical seam that joins the allowance and the lining to the front facing.
The lining sleeves are sewn by machine to the sleeve cuffs before the sleeves are set in place; after stitching the sleeves to the armhole, the lining sleeve is hand sewn to the armhole, incasing the raw edges. Some of these are more acute than others and should definitely not be ignored. Therefore, the customers can conveniently increase the recording capacity and preserve more information within their small data centers. Even a fully loaded high-low or forklift can turn its tires on this strong tape without damaging it. The coat is taking forever to complete and even more because I’ve documented most of the process… The skirt of the coat is therefore lined. Next, turned the skirt to the wrong side, closed the zipper and pulled the end of the zipper out of the way. Now I pulled the bobbing thread of the loose stitches, opening the vent. The exposed zipper vent isn’t hard to make, but it requires some precision, as you’ll soon see for yourselves. Here you can see the special purpose clips (they look like hair clamps) for holding the leather/pleather together while stitching; these are useful when pins or basted are not to be used avoiding piercing holes on a unforgiving material.